Spacer Fabrics and Moulded Bras’ Cups
2015
Inese Šroma, Inese Ziemele, Edīte Lēvalde

In this research manufacturing methods (weaving, braiding, weft-knitting, and warp-knitting and stitching) are clarified, characteristic properties and use of spacer fabrics is reviewed. Established manufacturers of spacer fabrics and moulded cups are listed. Established cups moulding methods – contour moulding and bullet moulding. Analysis of moulding process of cups from polyurethane foam was carried out to find the temperature and time necessary to manufacture formed cups from spacer fabrics. Optimum moulding conditions affect physical and thermal properties of the fabric, moulding temperature, and time and fill size of the cup. To manufacture seamless moulded cups both warp-knitted and weft-knitted spacer fabrics are used. Seamless moulded cups of spacer fabrics keep the natural shape of consumer’s breasts and provide feelings of maximum comfort – support, hygiene, flexibility, softness, smoothness. A moulded cap is required to retain its shape without fibres degradation and visual defects. Provides that the moulding temperature must be greater than the temperature of soft creation point of fabric fibres and less than the temperature of melting point of the fabric fibres. The higher fill size of bra cup, the greater diameter of the punch/matrix and immersion depth of punch should be used for moulding. The more elastic the fabric is and the higher ability of recovery of the fabric is, the deeper the punch of press mould has to be submerged and the longer moulding time is required. Fixed elasticity of two weft-knitted spacer fabrics, which affects the design output values of bras’ cups and technological regimes of moulding process – fill size of the moulded cup, type and size of the corresponding template and immersion depth of the punch. If fibre composition, type, elasticity of the fabric and fill size of cup is known, it is possible to predict moulding time of cup, used technological regimes of moulding process and to reduce number of experimental samples and time required. If elasticity, elongation and recovery ability of the fabric is known, it is possible to also predict design output values of specific fill size of bra mouldable cup – shape, size and values of additional margin allowance for rational use of the fabric. Current study should be continued to reduce the area of preforms of mouldable bra cups and the cost of manufacturing. To assess what is the boundary of elasticity between the elastic and less elastic fabric further research is needed.


Keywords
spacer fabrics, moulding of bra cups, elasticity of fabric, comfort
DOI
10.7250/mstct.2015.005

Šroma, I., Ziemele, I., lēvalde, E. Spacer Fabrics and Moulded Bras’ Cups. Material Science. Textile and Clothing Technology. Vol.10, 2015, pp.30-39. ISSN 1691-3132. e-ISSN 2255-8888. Available from: doi:10.7250/mstct.2015.005

Publication language
Latvian (lv)
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