Needle-Lace Technology and Applicability Traditions in Latvia since the 17th Century till Nowadays
2008
Dagmāra Prīberga

A selection of 45 needle-laces has been made during the research process. Informative text and image tables on the applicability and making traditions of these needle-laces in Latvia have been created. The oldest needle-laces to date in the research are from the 18th century, but the most information about their usage and making come from the 19th and 20th centuries. The information has been arranged and classified for a convenient lace object selection and filtration and it has been set up for the creation of a coding system and the development of an e-database. The summarized data does not contain all possible needle-lace archetypes in Latvia, but it outlines the needle-lace usage and making traditions in Latvia since the 17th century till nowadays. All needle-laces have similar manufacturing techniques and simple tools. A needle to make the lace (to sew, to embroider, to trim, to seam etc.), a pad (textile, felt, leather etc.) with a lace pattern drawn on a parchment attached to it and a frame to fasten it all. The lace is created stitch by stitch as an independent textile, unrelated to the fabric. Depending on the manufacturing technique there are several kinds of needle-laces or embroidered laces. Each of them includes different types distinguished by specific technological methods. There are five types of needle-laces or embroidered laces – pin embroidered lace, brim lace, band lace, teneriffe lace and tulle lace. The most popular lace type is the embroidered tulle lace – 43%, the classic pin laces take up only 8% and the rest divides similarly – band laces – 16%, brim laces – 19% and the teneriffe laces – 14%. The research results of the needle-laces clearly show that the needle-lace making was not particularly popular in the Latvian textile manufacture. This is explainable by the fact that the needlewoman preferred to embroider on textiles. Equally to the lace manufacturing there were such pin handicrafts like one-way and two-way open works, trivial as white work or embroidered laces. Later in the 19th century, when it was possible to purchase industrially woven tulle, the embroidery on tulle also developed. In the 20th century embroidered tulle laces are widely used in clothes as well as in household textiles. Nowadays embroidery on tulle is topical too. One of the main aspects is the maintenance of the traditional legacy. Embroidered tulle lace ornaments in the wife hats a.o. of the national costume of Vidzeme and Zemgale have favoured the preservation of this handicraft, carrying art style characteristics even from the 17th centuries. This approves the fact that tulle embroidery has the widest applicability in the field of needle-laces.


Keywords
Šūtas mežģīnes. Adatiņas tehnika. Tills.

Prīberga, D. Needle-Lace Technology and Applicability Traditions in Latvia since the 17th Century till Nowadays. Material Science. Textile and Clothing Technology. Vol.3, 2008, pp.103-122. ISSN 1691-3132.

Publication language
Latvian (lv)
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